WD CLICK SOUND SOLUTION

Clicking Noise and Continuous Noise
——————————————————————————————

1- The Clicking Noise
when u power on the hard drive u will hear a noise like (click,click….click,click…click,click)
this noise may be related to the head stack or PCB, the first thing you have to do is to check the PCB By The following steps:

1- first u have to clean the Whole PCB With a Solvent & Toothbruch then wipe it with a piece of smooth handkerchief to remove the dust & dirt from it.
Caution: Cleaning of the PCB must be done carefully to avoid removal of any small electronic components.

2- Check the Resistor (R120) , [ the right value of this Resistor is (0.12 Ohm) ] ,u may adjust ur multimeter to Resistor Measuring Mode to Determine its Value ,if it’s Damaged u have to replace it. but before that, u have to check Transistor Q3 , it’s a 6 pins transistor , for measuring this transistor u may adjust ur multimeter to Diode Mode,[ the right Value will be: (first two pins = 0.000 , second two pins =0.000 , Third two pins = nearly over 600)]
if Q3 is Damaged it will burn ur R120 after u replace it , so be sure that Q3 is ok before replacing R120 & u may also Check Transistor Q6 by the previous method to be completely sure it’s safe to replace R120.
Note: ( to be sure of The right values of these electronic components u may compare the values u have measured with the values of a working PCB’s Components)

3- Check The Coils (such as L2 & L7) – adjust ur multimeter to diode mode then the right value must be ( 0.000 ) for any coil as u all know.

4- inspect the whole PCB for any removed component ( such as small capacitors or Resistors ) … the removal of these small components may occured while forced cleaning of the PCB …. so becareful while cleaning it.

5- in rare cases the firmware microchip may be damaged.

the link below contains a high resolution image which shows all the electronic components I have mentioned above – i’m very sorry i couldn’t upload it to this forum cause it’s over than 512 KB.

http://link.imgshare.us/a4j2BZ

——————————————————————————————

2- The Continuous Noise

sometimes there is a continuous noise come from WD HDDs mainly with L-shape PCBs
with motor ICs ( Smooth 1.3) , (L6278 1.7) & (L6278 1.2).

the noise is like : Trrrrrrrrrrrrrr or Trrrr….Trrrr…Trrrrr

so all we have to do for fixing this problem is:

1- clean the connection points which connect the head stack pins with the PCB using a pencil Rubber …carefully.

2- clean the motor IC pins thoroughly using a solvent & Toothbrush then wipe it with a piece of smooth handkerchief to remove the dust & dirt from it.

-Note- the two steps mentioned above solve the problem in few cases.

3- if the two steps mentioned above didn’t fix the problem , you have to replace the motor IC cause it’s damaged.

-Note- in case of Motor ICs (L6278 1.7) & (L6278 1.2) first try to desolder them then resolder them again before u decide to replace them with a new ones … this sometimes work , but if it didn’t work … replace them directly.
– in case of Motor IC (Smooth 1.3) you must replace it directly.

The image below Shows you where to clean.

I hope this topic will be helpful for u all

any inquiries …. any new suggestions …. any criticism … u all r welcome

Best Regards & Good Luck
Ahmed_Samy

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External Drive Not Recognized? This Is How To Fix It In Windows

External drives — either USB flash drives or external hard drives — should be easy to use. In some cases, you may connect your drive to a Windows PC or another device with a USB port and find that it’s not recognized. This problem can be caused by partition issues on your external drive, using the wrong file system, dead USB ports, driver issues in Windows, or other problems. In a worst case scenario, the drive itself may simply be dead.

The steps below will be the same for both USB flash drives and larger external hard drives, which work similarly.

Does the Drive Show Up in Disk Management?

First, let’s check whether Windows detects the drive when you plug it in. Plug your removable drive into your computer. If it’s an external hard drive, you may have to flip a power switch on the hard drive to activate it. Some heavy-duty removable hard drives may even have to be plugged in with a separate power cable before they’ll work.

Next, open the Disk Management tool. To do so, press Windows Key + R, type diskmgmt.msc into the Run dialog, and press Enter.

You should see your external drive listed in the Disk Management window. Even if it doesn’t appear in your Computer window because it doesn’t contain any partitions, it should show up here.

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If you do see the drive here, you can continue to the last section where we’ll format it properly so Windows or your other devices can access and recognize it.

If you don’t see the drive here, continue to the next section where we’ll try to determine why your drive isn’t recognized.

Making Windows Recognize the Drive

If Windows doesn’t see your drive at all, it’s possible there’s a hardware issue with your computer’s USB port, a driver problem with your Windwos computer, or you may just have a dead drive.

First, unplug the drive from your USB port and try plugging it into another USB port on your computer. If it works in one USB port but not another, you may have a dead USB port. If you’ve plugged the drive into a USB hub, try connecting it to the computer instead. Some USB hubs won’t provide enough power for your external drive to function.

If the drive doesn’t show up in Disk Management even after you skip the USB hub and connect it to another USB port on your computer, it’s tough to know for certain whether the drive itself is bad or the computer is having a problem. If you have another computer nearby, try plugging the drive in there to check whether it’s detected. If the drive doesn’t work on any computer you plug it into — be sure to check whether it appears in the computer’s Disk Management window — the drive itself is likely dead and will need to be replaced.

If the drive does work on other computers — or you don’t have another computer around to test this with — Windows may be having a driver problem with the drive. You can check for this using the Device Manager.

To open it, press Windows Key + R, type “devmgmt.msc” into the Run dialog, and press Enter.

Look under Disk drives and check for any devices with a yellow exclamation mark next to them. If you see a yellow exclamation mark, you have a driver problem. Right-click the device with a yellow exclamation mark, select Properties, and look at the error message. This error message can help you fix the problem — you may want to perform a Google search for the error message you find.

Such problems can be tricky to fix. If the problem started recently, you may want to run System Restore. You may want to use the Update Driver button to install an updated driver, use the Roll Back Driver button to revert any changes, or use the Uninstall button to uninstall the device from your system and hope that Windows will reinstall the driver and configure it correctly when you reconnect the drive.

Partitioning and Formatting the Drive

We can use the Windows Disk Management tool to fix partition and file system issues with the drive. If you see that the drive is unpartitioned and is full of “unallocated space,” you’ll want to create a new partition on it. This will allow Windows and other operating systems to use it.

To do so, right-click inside the unallocated space, select New Simple Volume, and go through the wizard to create a new partition.

If your drive is partitioned and you still can’t see it, ensure you’ve set a drive letter so you can access it in Windows. This should happen automatically, but if you’ve manually unset the drive letter, the drive may not show up and be accessible in Windows.

To do this, right-click the removable drive’s partition, select Change Drive Letter and Paths, and add a drive letter. For example, add the letter G: and the removable drive will be accessible at drive G:.

If the drive does appear to be partitioned, it may be partitioned with the wrong file system. For example, you may have formatted the drive with the ext4 file system from Linux or the HFS Plus file system from a Mac. Windows can’t read these file systems. Reformat the drive with the newer NTFS file system or older FAT32 file system so Windows will be able to recognize it.

To reformat a partition, right-click it, select Format, and select your desired file system.

Note that this will erase all the files on your drive, so you’ll want to copy any important files off of it first — for example, if you formatted the drive on a Linux or Mac computer, take it back to a computer running Linux or Mac and copy your important files off of it before continuing.

If you can’t access the drive from another device, such as a DVD player, smart TV, game console, or media center device, it may be formatted as NTFS. Many devices, even Microsoft’s own Xbox 360, can’t read the Windows NTFS file system. They can only access drives formatted with the older FAT32 file system. To fix this problem, simply reformat the NTFS partition as FAT32. The drive should then be recognized by other devices when you connect it to them.

Note that this process will erase the files on your external drive. Copy the files off the drive to back them up first, if necessary.

Following this process should solve most of the disk recognition issues you’ll encounter. If a drive isn’t recognized by any computer you connect it to and never shows up in the Disk Management window, it’s probably dead.

Have you ever had to do any of the things here to fix an unrecognized external drive? Leave a comment and let us know what worked for you!

The BIOS does not detect or recognize the ATA / SATA hard drive

Tips and tricks for troubleshooting a Serial ATA or ATA/IDE internal drive that is not detected in the BIOS.

There are six main reasons why a system BIOS will not detect the presence of an internal hard drive.  Here is a list of them.  They are not in any particular order, but you can follow these steps one by one to troubleshoot this problem:

1. Drive not enabled in the BIOS
2. Serial ATA drivers are not properly installed
3. Faulty or unplugged data cable
4. Drive is not spinning up
5. Incorrect jumper settings on the drive
6. Faulty hard drive

Note: Sections 3, 4, 5, and 6 pertain to PC or Mac systems. Sections 1 and 2 pertain only to PC systems.

For more detailed step-by-step troubleshooting on this topic, please see the Seagate Serial ATA troubleshooter “Drive Not Detected” section.

After verifying that your ATA or SATA port is set to Auto-Detect or is enabled, if you find that your disk drive is not being detected (auto-detected) by the system BIOS, try the following steps to try and isolate/troubleshoot the problem.

1. Drive not enabled in the BIOS
   Most personal computers display a brief message about entering System Setup soon after the power is turned on. System Setup is also called the “system BIOS” or sometimes the “CMOS Setup” – each is a name for the same thing.
   For example, on Dell systems you will see “F2=Setup” in the upper right hand corner during the computer boot-up.  This means to press the F2 key to enter Setup (the BIOS).   Different computer manufactures have different methods to enter Setup, so please check your system documentation for specifics. Also, this link can be useful.

   System setup is where the date and time are stored and where startup preferences like NumLock or Passwords are defined.  In addition, many hardware settings are defined in System Setup.
   In particular, hard disk drives are often controlled here.  At the simplest level, hard drives are numbered in Setup as Drive 0, Drive 1, etc or sometimes as Primary Master, Primary Slave.  Which ever way these are named, they have a basic ON / OFF setting (sometimes AUTOMATIC or something similar).  If your drive is not detected it may be because it is turned OFF in System Setup.
   In most cases, the boot drive is Drive 0 or Primary Master.  When you add a second drive to the system, it may be need to be enabled by turning it ON in System Setup.

   Sample screen shot showing a Dell System Setup section for disk drives:
   

2. The Serial ATA motherboard drivers are not properly loaded (especially in Windows XP/2000).

   When you install Windows XP/2000 on a drive that will be the boot drive (ie, the C: drive), when it comes time to install Windows, the drive may not be detected.  Here is the proper procedure:

   1. Insert the Windows XP/2000 CD/DVD into the CD/DVD drive.
   2. Power down the computer.
   3. Mount and connect the Serial ATA hard drive.
   4. Power up the computer.
   5. For some add-in SATA controller cards, you will need to press the F6 key to install drivers as the Windows setup screen launches.

      -You may never have noticed the “F6” option before, since it happens at the bottom of the screen and is visible for only a few seconds during a standard install. What you most likely encountered during the setup process was a screen that came up, informing you Setup could not find any drives installed on your computer and that it could not continue, much like the screen sample below:

      (Click to expand)
      

   6. To be able to hit the F6 button, you must restart the Setup process, and watch the bottom of the screen after pressing Enter on the “Welcome to Setup” screen. There will be some moments of files being loaded, and then you should see a message appear that says “Press F6 if you need to install a 3rd party SCSI or RAID driver”. This message will only stay on the screen for a couple of seconds, so press F6 as soon as you see it appear.

      (Click to expand)
      

   7. After this is done, you will see other messages appear, and it will act as though nothing is happening, but eventually a screen will appear that will allow you to install the drivers for the add-in SATA controller. The screen will look like the sample below:

      (Click to expand)
      

   8. After you press S, the driver install process will continue and the floppy diskettes will be needed. Further instructions will be furnished after the driver install process has ended.

      (Click to expand)
      

   9. Insert the floppy diskette containing the drivers for the add-in Serial ATA controller.
   10. Once the drivers are loaded, proceed with the normal Windows XP/2000 installation.

   A few further notes on the driver diskette:
   For the hard drive to be detected in a new installation, the drivers for the add-in SATA controller/motherboard must be loaded at the beginning of installation.
   The drivers for the controller/motherboard can probably be found either on the CD that came with it or on the manufacturer’s website. These drivers do not come from Seagate; they come from the motherboard manufacturer. Simply load the required drivers on the diskette and have it ready.

3. Faulty or Unplugged Data Cable
   • Always inspect the motherboard and hard disk connections for bent or misaligned pins. Folding, crimping, pinching, or creasing data cables can cause the wires to break inside the insulation, leaving the exterior of the cable looking normal. When in doubt of data cable condition, replace it.
   • For SATA cables, Seagate recommends using cables shorter than 39.37 inches (1 meter).  For further information, please see Document ID: 182453.

     Here are some images of Serial ATA cables.  Click to expand.

     

     

   • The BIOS will not detect a hard disk if the data cable is damaged or the connection is incorrect.
     Serial ATA cables, in particular, can sometimes fall out of their connection. Be sure to check your SATA cables are tightly connected to the SATA port connection.
   • The easiest way to test a cable is to replace it with another cable.  If the problem persists, then the cable was not the cause of the problem.
   • For ATA drives, Seagate recommends using UDMA cabling with a maximum length of 18 inches. UDMA cables have color coded connections which require proper orientation when connecting.
     • Blue connector – always connects to the motherboard.
     • Grey (middle) connector – is used for slave devices on the cable.
     • Black connector – is used for master device connection.

     See this image:
     (Click to expand)

     

4. Drive is not spinning up

   If the drive is not receiving power or receiving an incorrect level of power, it will not spin up. To check to see if this is the cause of the BIOS not detecting the hard drive, follow these steps:

   1. Power off the computer.
   2. Open the computer case and remove the data cable from the hard drive. This will stop any power saving commands from being sent.
   3. Turn on the system. Check to see if the hard drive is spinning. If you touch the side of the drive you should feel a slight vibration. If you do not hear or feel the hard drive spinning, the drive did not start.

      If you cannot determine whether the drive is spinning:

      1. Boot the computer and listen carefully.
      2. Shut the computer down.
      3. Disconnect the power cord from the computer itself.
      4. Disconnect the power cable from the hard drive in question.
      5. Reconnect the power cord to the computer itself.
      6. Boot the computer up to see if the drive sound was audible before. And,
      7. Then repeat, only reconnect the hard drive and listen for it to spin up.
   4. Switch power cables with a device like a CDROM or DVDROM drive, so that you are using a known-good power cable.
   5. Check the power supply on your computer to determine whether it is providing sufficient electrical power to operate the drives and devices you have in your computer.
   6. If the drive is still not spinning, connect it in another computer if possible.
   7. Connect the drive in a SATA-USB enclosure or something similar if possible.
   8. If the drive does not spin up after all of these steps, please visit the Warranty page to begin a warranty replacement order.
5. Incorrect jumper settings on the drive

   Serial ATA:  If you have a 3.0 Gbit/sec SATA drive that is not being detected by your 1.5Gb/sec SATA controller, or it causes your system to lock up when connected to a 1.5 Gbit/sec SATA controller, you may need to jumper your 3.0 Gbit/sec SATA drive to the slower speed of 1.5 Gbit/sec for the system to recognize it properly.
   – — (Click to expand) Jumper settings for Seagate SATA drives
   – — (Click to expand) Jumper settings for Maxtor-brand SATA drives

   ATA:  It is recommended that all Seagate ATA hard disks supporting the Cable Select jumper option be configured as Cable Select. If your computer system was built prior to October 1998 and does not support UDMA 66 or greater you will be required to use the Master/Slave jumper settings.

   – — (Click to expand) Jumper settings for Seagate ATA drives
   – — (Click to expand) Jumper settings for Maxtor-brand ATA drives

   When using Cable Select jumper settings on your ATA drive, all devices connected to the UDMA cable must also use the Cable Select setting. The cable decides master/slave device detection when the cable select jumper settings are used.

6. Faulty Hard Drive If you have completed the above checks and procedures and the drive is still not properly detected, please attempt to use SeaTools for DOS (see the tutorial here) to test the drive.  If SeaTools does not detect the drive after the steps followed above, or an error code that signifies drive failure displays, please proceed to the our Warranty Services page to begin a warranty replacement order.

 

UNLOCK a SOFTWARE

How To UNLOCK a Password Protected Western Digital WD SATA Hard Drive Without Knowing the Master or User Password

Posted on November 1, 2012

How To UNLOCK a Password Protected Western Digital WD, IBM or Hitachi SATA Hard Drive Without Knowing the Master or User Password 

NEW INSTRUCTIONS (June 4, 2013)

Look, you are here for a reason.  You are stuck.  The drive is locked and you’re screwed. The whole reason for this post is to HELP YOU OUT. I’m not the author. This software can be found in its bare form for free.  I made this available because as a fellow man, I know what its like to help a bro out.

What I’m trying to say is if this works for you, please help out the next guy by posting your experiences at the bottom of this page as a comment.  Thanks! :>

I have made everything easier and more clear.  Now you just boot from an .iso file and it does the rest automatically.

*This guide was intended for Western Digital drives only at this time. I have some reports that software also works on IBM and Hitachi IDE/SATA drives, but I have not confirmed that yet by myself, so I do not claim that it will here yet.  If you unlock a non-WD drive, please post your results as a comment.  See Step 8 for IBM/Hitachi command line switches. Thanks.

1. Read everything on this page.  You need to understand that you need a compatible chipset, proper SATA/IDE BIOS settings, and that the WD Unlocker Software only unlocks hard drive bios passwords, and has *only been tested on Western Digital drives.  It has not been tested on SED self encrypted drives.

NOTE: UNTESTED ON WD My PASSPORT USB DRIVES.

SATA/IDE ONLY! NO USB!

SATA/IDE ONLY! NO USB!

2. Repeat Step 1.

3. You will need:

-SATA/IDE hard drive connected to the primary 1 or secondary 2 slot or plug.

Updated list of supported drives (no guarantees):

Maxtor (except STM),WD,Toshiba,Quantum
Fujitsu (except MHW,MHZ,MHY,MJA). There is a mistake for MHX
Nikimi (former Quantum & Maxtor)
MDT (former WD)
Native Hitachi (DK-xx,HTC..G7AT00)
IBM/HGST (many models,except 100h_byte_NVRAM & 4K-NVRAM & 2.5″ with blue controllers. (mcu=ARM & B9A3..), disks without NVRAM)
ExcelStore(former HGST).
Seagate(with parallel flash)+Grand(UX with serial flash).

NOTE: UNTESTED ON WD My PASSPORT USB DRIVES.

SATA/IDE ONLY! NO USB! (not tested, no guarantees)

-Compatible chipset.  I recommend early Intel based with both IDE+SATA support such as Pentium4 based. I know for a fact that a modern quad core based system such as a Dell T3500 or Lenovo s20 Thinkstation DO NOT WORK.  You need an OLDER chipset. I can confirm a HP Compaq d530 desktop WILL WORK. The first time I unlocked a drive, the software failed to detect the drive on two more modern motherboards, until I tried a different third older motherboard and it worked. Knowing this will save you hours of frustration.

YOU MUST HAVE A COMPATIBLE CHIPSET!

YOU MUST HAVE A COMPATIBLE CHIPSET!

YOU MUST HAVE A COMPATIBLE CHIPSET!

-BIOS SATA/IDE controllers set to the most NATIVE and non-AHCI or non-RAID mode you can set. This setting will vary greatly between motherboards. Try every setting if something fails or the unlocker does not see a drive.  You can test a good setting by booting and running a copy of MHDD 4.x (mhdd32ver4.5.iso). If MHDD detects and lists the hard drive, then your BIOS settings are correct.  If you cannot see the drive, try different drive controller settings in your bios, or get another motherboard.

-USB flash drive  or  blank cd/dvd disc and burner drive to burn the .iso file.

-the WD Unlocker Software .exe file (*written by Moltke) and a boot .iso. This software is freely available on the internet. I have done all the other extra hard work and created a complete boot package with all the files you need ready to go. This includes the hours of research, file procurement, creating a boot .iso, modified and optimized the startup configuration, and then repackaged these up with nice easy instructions. No fucking viruses here. If you don’t want to donate, go click around and download from the russian forums and try your luck. Either way you still need a boot package.  The prepared package is available if you like for a small donation here:

Download ZU Hard Drive Unlocker files here:

https://www.coinbase.com/buttons/1c25828de937c6527a71d1e736eb9a96?buttonStyle=custom_large&code=1c25828de937c6527a71d1e736eb9a96&referrer=lagunabeachcomputer.com

TERMS OF SALE:

NO REFUNDS   DO NOT PURCHASE IF YOU WANT A REFUND

NO RETURNS

NO SUPPORT

NO GUARANTEES THAT IT WORKS ON YOUR HARDWARE

DO NOT BUY THIS SOFTWARE UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
 **** Warning the .rar file you might be tempted to download from OTHER untrusted links has a very nasty new variant of the Win32/Virut virus.  DON’T DOWNLOAD IT!  You get what you pay for! Look you can mess around and register at a dozen Russian forums, download and open a hundred infected zip files, but I’m telling you, don’t waste your time, I’ve already done all the work for you.

****

Unlocker Boot .iso Package Price has increased to $4.99 as of 6/7/2013

You will be emailed a download link after checkout.

 No Guarantees. No Refunds. No Support. No Returns. All Transactions are FINAL.

I didn’t write the unlocker software, it will either work or it won’t. I have only compiled and repackaged into a easy to use ready to go download. Your small donation goes to offset my site server costs…   but hey! It’s only two bucks! Otherwise, your drive is a guaranteed useless dead brick.

4. Download the above software file and save it. Open the .zip/compressed folder.

5. Insert USB Flash Drive. (you could alternatively burn the .iso file to CD or DVD and boot from that instead and skip to Step 8):

6.  ——> From the .zip package file you downloaded n Step 3 <——— , Run YUMI-0.0.9.5.exe and install the Unlocker_Boot_Image.iso file on the USB Drive.  YUMI will format and erase all data on the USB drive, so backup any important files first. See the readme.jpg graphic.  (The Unlocker_Boot_Image.iso file is only available/downloadable from the shopping cart in step 3.)

7. After your boot USB flash drive has been created, Open the USB drive folder and copy the file /multiboot/menu/menu.lst to the root / and /multiboot folders.  Copy/Paste it back to the USB drive into these two folders-> ‘ / ’ (root) and  ’/multiboot/’ .  This fixes a GRUB error that sometimes keeps the boot menu from showing.  Basically just copy the menu.lst file to every folder on the USB Drive to enable GRUB to find it. If you do not do step 7, your boot will probably (but not necessarily) fail at the GRUB prompt.    

8. Boot to the USB drive on the computer with the locked drive attached. Choose “Directly Bootable ISOs or Windows XP” from the YUMI boot menu.  Then Choose  ”Boot Unlocker_Boot_Image.iso” from the GRUB boot menu. The unlocker software should automatically load some drivers and start.  My drive took 80 minutes to unlock.  Just let it work.  If you must quit hit CTRL+C.   You may restart the unlocker by typing ‘unlock.exe /A‘ (all) or ‘unlock.exe /P‘ (primary) or ‘unlock.exe /S‘ (slave/secondary) at the dos prompt. For Hitachi Global Star HGST / IBM drives add a ‘.’   Type ‘unlock.exe /P.‘   ”.” for .  For Native Hitachi drives add an ’8′. If you have success at unlocking a drive, please post a comment adding any additional knowledge that you can share, thanks! :>

Examples:

unlock.exe /A = Western Digital drive on (A)ll controllers

unlock.exe /S. =  IBM or Hitachi Global Star drive on secondary controller

unlock.exe /P8  = native Hitachi drive on primary controller

If You Have Success In Unlocking Your Hard Drive Using This Software, Please Post Your Results As a Comment to This Page So That You May Help Others.  Thanks

 THANK YOU MOLTKE !  You Deserve all the Credit.

HDD Unlock

v

Note: HDD Unlock Wizard may support more drives than listed here. Please run HDD Unlock Wizard to find out whether your drive is supported — it’s free and takes seconds!

WD Scorpio
WD3200BEVT

WD2500BEVS   WD2500BEAS   WD2500BEVE   WD2500BEAE
WD1600BEVS   WD1600BEAS   WD1600BEVE   WD1600BEAE
WD1200BEVS   WD1200BEAS   WD1200BEVE   WD1200BEAE
WD1000BEVS   WD1000BEAS   WD1000BEVE   WD1000BEAE
WD800BEVS   WD800BEAS   WD800BEVE   WD800BEAE
WD600BEVS   WD600BEAS   WD600BEVE   WD600BEAE

WD1200VE   WD1200UE
WD1000VE   WD1000UE
WD800VE   WD800UE
WD600VE   WD600UE
WD400VE   WD400UE

WD Raptor
WD1500AHFD   WD1500ADFD
WD740ADFD   WD740GD
WD360ADFD   WD360GD

WD Caviar Second Generation/GP Second Generation Serial ATA
WD10EACS
WD7500AACS   WD7500AAKS
WD5000AACS   WD5000KS   WD5000AAKS   WD5000JS   WD5000AAJS
WD4000KS   WD4000AAKS   WD4000JS   WD4000AAJS
WD3200KS   WD3200AAKS   WD3200AABS   WD3200JS   WD3200AAJS
WD3000JS   WD3000AAJS
WD2500KS   WD2500AAKS   WD2500AABS   WD2500KS   WD2500JS
WD2500AAJS
WD2000KS   WD2000JS
WD1600JS   WD1600AAJS   WD1600AABS
WD1200JS   WD1200AABS
WD800AABS

WD Caviar RE2/RE
WD7500AYYS
WD5000YS
WD5000ABYS
WD4000YR   WD4000YS   WD4000ABYS
WD3200SD   WD3200SB   WD3200YS
WD2500SD   WD2500SB   WD2500YD
WD1600SD   WD1600SB   WD1600YD
WD1200SD   WD1200SB

WD Caviar SE/SE 16
WD5000AAKB   WD5000AAJB
WD4000KD   WD4000AAKB   WD4000AAJB
WD3200JB   WD3200JD   WD3200AAKB   WD3200AAJB
WD3000JB   WD3000JD
WD2500JB   WD2500KS   WD2500JS   WD2500JD
WD2500AAKB   WD2500AAJB   WD2500PB
WD2000JB   WD2000JS   WD2000JD   WD2000PB
WD1800JB
WD1600JB   WD1600JS   WD1600JD
WD1200JB   WD1200PB   WD1200JS   WD1200JD
WD1000JB
WD800JB   WD800JD
WD600JB
WD400JB   WD400JD

WD Caviar (mainstream)
WD3200BD   WD3200AABB   WD3200BB
WD3000BB
WD2500BB   WD2500LB   WD2500AABB
WD2000BD   WD2000BB   WD2000LB
WD1800BB   WD1800JB
WD1600BB   WD1600AB
WD1200BB   WD1200LB   WD1200AB
WD1000BB   WD1000JB   WD1000AB
WD800BB   WD800BD   WD800AB   WD800EB
WD600BB   WD600JB   WD600AB   WD600EB
WD400BD   WD400BB   WD400AB   WD400EB
WD300BB   WD300AB   WD300EB
WD200BB   WD200AB   WD200EB
WD100BB

Unlock Western Digital HDD Using Master Password

Today I spent nearly half day in trying to unlock Western Digital HDD . It was password protected from BIOS (some unfortunate guy locked it and forgot). Its unlocked by using MASTER Password available for Western Digital HDD.

Master Password used >>> “WDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCW”

So full procedure….

1) Booted from Hiren Boot CD -> Mini Windows Xp

2) Started Victoria HDD Test

3) Select WD HDD -> PIO -> PRIMARY

4) At Right hand side bottom , enter above master password and click on UNLOCK

5) Then its done.

Hope it will solve all your trouble.

If still didnt understand then download Victoria HDD for Windows from here.

BEWARE … USING VICTORIA HDD CARELESSLY CAN DEFUNCT YOUR WORKING HDD…….

Visit here for Master Password of other brands.

Best Luck for HDD HACKING…..

WD- Downloads

WD- Downloads